The thing about surfing is: you are really chasing these tiny moments of weightless bliss.
The entire experience exists to get you back to these fleeting moments.
The early mornings, the damp wetsuits, the set waves on the head, the paddle-battling with the crowds—all of it is in pursuit of those magic moments.
But here's the beautiful thing, it only takes one good session, one great wave, or sometimes even one really good turn to remind yourself why you fell in love with surfing in the first place.
If you feel like your surfing has been stagnant, consider this your nudge to paddle out in search of those moments again.
Take off early, stall hard in the pocket, set your rail on the face of the wave and feel the joy of riding a wave. Surf that wave all the way to the beach, kick out and do it again.
The joy of surfing will return quicker than you think.
